 "Photo: Joseph M. de Leon")
NEW ORLEANS - Café Du Monde, the café and bakery in the French Quarter, is world-famous for its café au lait and beignets, a fried cake topped with powdery sugar.
Before Hurricane Katrina, patrons waited in a line that stretched down the sidewalk just to place an order to go.
Customers have been known to place orders across the patio railing via seated patrons just for a taste of the delicate squares of puffed pastry.
These days, Café Du Monde stays about half full. Tourists are returning, but recovery has been slow.
White confectioner's sugar dusts the floor of the covered patio making spots sticky. Coffee cups clink in time with conversation while a lone electric guitar twangs "New York, New York" from the sidewalk.
Nick Molina, 45, a native of New Orleans, sat on a stool on Decatur Street, plucking songs such as "Here Comes the Sun" and the theme to "The Flintstones."
Homero Torralva, a tourist from Houston, tossed a few dollars into Molina's bucket. "Do you know 'The Brady Bunch' theme?" he asked.
"No, I haven't learned that one yet," Molina said as he adjusted the strings of his guitar.
After a short exchange about favorite television shows, they agreed on "The Jetsons" theme song.
Molina plays finger-style guitar, which places the melody over a constant bass string accompaniment, a complex plucking style that allows one guitar to do the work of two.
Bob Ruben, an old trombone player, parked his stool nearby and handed Molina handwritten sheet music.
The team has been playing together for about two years.
The slide of Ruben's tarnished and dented trombone moved back and forth as he warmed up.
Musicians jockey for a spot in front of Café Du Monde. "A team of saxophone players used to manipulate the place," Molina said, keeping other musicians from occupying the lucrative spot. Few street performers have returned to New Orleans. Molina said he has never made more money while playing on the street.
"Right now, I play from about 8 in the morning until 2 in the afternoon - longer if I'm with someone," Molina said as he counted that morning's earnings, more than $50.
On a great day, Molina tops $150.
"Honestly, the hurricane has been a good thing for me," Molina said.
"Don't say that," Ruben interrupted. "You think it's OK to benefit from people's misery?"
"I'm only telling the truth," Molina answered. "I'm making more money, and we got this nice spot."
Ruben turned his attention to the reporter.
"And you, don't write that - it has no heart," he said. "Come on, we're trying to play here."
They argued over the impact of Hurricane Katrina.
"Look at this place, it's got no business," Ruben said, motioning to Café Du Monde.
"What about that place uptown close to the river, it's never been busier?" Molina said.
The heated talk reflects a debate many residents in New Orleans are having.
The impact of Hurricane Katrina has divided communities. Neighbors and friends have polarized views on what matters most.
When Ruben had enough, he quieted the discussion with his trombone. "I don't like to talk. That's why I play the trombone."
Be the first to comment on this article!